THE ANNAPURNA EXPERIENCE

Your guide will greet you bright and early at your hotel in Kathmandu and take you to your 7am bus trip to Pokhara. If you’re not an early riser, don’t sweat. Once you’re on the bus you can kick back for a 5-6 hour drive. However you may feel torn between catching up on beauty sleep and feasting your eyes on the beautiful views of hazy hills, rivers and highway settlements. While Kathmandu does have a divine charm for a city, you’ll soon realise that the rural lands outside of the city embody a pestilential wonder of its own; the perfect start to your journey.

Another early start as you travel by private van or jeep to Birethani, the entrance point to the Annapurna region. A two-hour drive up unpaved roads means this will be a bumpy ride. But fear not and hold on tight, the locals have done this trip many times before. At Birethani your guide will pick up all your permits and TIMS and you will cross the main bridge which marks the start of your Annapurna trek! 

Your first stop is Ghandruk, a 5-6 hours trek taking the path that runs alongside a gushing river. Prepare for a few steep inclines and, depending on what time of year you go, you will work up a sweat. All in the name of gaining spectacular views right? You will be greeted by the Gurung community when you reach your destination and be invited into their lodgings where you will spend your first night on the mountains.

You bid farewell to Ghandruk and begin your next 6 hour trek, this time to Chhomrong. On the way you will see more of Annapurna South coming into view, your main goal already in sight (and yet so far away). The trail takes a different turn to what you expect, first an hour ascent to Kimrungdanda and then a descent to Kimrong Khola. Another steep ascent up to Chere Danda and then a descent followed by a gentle walk into Chhomrong.

You’re probably wondering “Why not just straight up?” From this you will learn about the terrain of the Annapurna range and how the roads are built to complement and preserve the terrain, rather than supersede it. Your efforts will pay off as you arrive at Chhomrong, a remarkable village tucked away in the lap of the Annapurna massive.

Wake up to a glorious view of the mountainface just outside your room window! After breakfast you begin your 5 hour trek to Bamboo by descending 2500 stone steps and crossing the bridge above Chhomrong Khola. Ascend up to and through Sinuwa, where you will have lunch.

After the much needed rest you will be greeted with a luscious forest into Kuldihar followed by an easy downhill walk to Bamboo village. Enjoy dinner in a village hidden away in a dense bamboo forest.

This part of your trek will be an hour shorter than the other days (about 4 hours) but it is the most physically exerting. I promise you, however, that today will also be the most scenic day of all the other days thus far, as you begin trekking through Bamboo forest and are greeted with astounding views of the glacial river below.

This is followed by a steep climb through another dense forest before you reach Hinku Cave. Watch your step (and sometimes your head) as you slowly trudge over slippery rocks! The trail after this drops off close to the river before climbing up to Deurali, a village tucked in a valley with the immense mountainside towering over both sides.

You are almost at the summit, just a little further! You should feel the air getting thinner now, your breath more rapid, the temperatures dropping as you wade through a riverbed and steep trail taking you from Bagar to Machhapuchre Base Camp. MBC sits in the nook of a crown of mountains: Mt. Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Gandharvachuli, and so on. You will notice that very little vegetation grows here; you are so high up now (13,500 ft to be exact) and so far away from civilisation that the only sounds you’ll hear are the sounds of your breathing and the echoes of fellow hikers in the MBC lodges.

After lunch you continue on for another 2 hours towards Annapurna Base Camp where your efforts are celebrated with a 360 panoramic view of Annapurna! Some celebratory beers are in order at ABC! 

You bid farewell and give thanks to everything Annapurna has taught you and begin to retrace your steps back to Bamboo village. Today’s trek will consist of a lot of downhill. All the scenes that you missed before probably because you were so tired, you’ll get to see them today.

A much needed reward awaits you at the end of today’s trek. You continue retracing your steps from Bamboo to Kuldighar to Chhomrong Kola and up the stone steps. Jhinu Danda is your final rest point on the mountains. Drop off your things at the lodging, get your swimwear out and head 15 minutes downhill to the glorious hot springs. You may see the same fellow travellers from earlier so you’ll get to celebrate and chill out with good company. Victory never tasted so sweet!

Enjoy a nice easy walk along the Modi riverbank as you make your way to Nayapul, where you will be picked up to get back to Pokhara. If you missed your chance to enjoy the evening in Pokhara before leaving, then I strongly suggest visiting all the open mic nights at the bars before you return to Kathmandu.